Tuesday, September 18, 2007

Saskatoon - Calories and funkiness

I would say "Calories" is not the most classy name for

an innovative, highly-regarded bistro cafe in Saskatoon's funky Broadway Avenue district ~ it reminds me of "Curves" ~ the weight loss clinic on Hastings back in Vancouver. Not ideal.

But as a result of several rave mentions, Michelle and I ended up at Calories for an afternoon, then evening, of serious wine-and-tourist-porn intake. We were in love with Broadway and decided we couldn't bear to leave it until after dark.

Our first day in downtown Saskatoon had been spectacular: Philip served us a perfect breakfast Swiss-and-veggie omelet in the Senator's wine bar, even though it was almost noon. he told us we had to go to Christie's bakery, we had to go to calories and we had to tell him more about Vancouver.It seemed a fair trade so we held up our end of the deal.

First stop: Tourism Saskatoon to score some maps and more tourist-porn. I approached Tracy behind the tourist info counter, not expecting much. "Do you have a - er - bohemian part of town?" I asked cautiously, "You know, where people ride bikes... used book stores... locally-owned coffee shops..."

"Broadway Avenue," she said immediately, and immediately I liked her. "There's a co-op film theatre, art cafes, all kind of stuff." She paused. "Oh, there IS a Starbucks," she added, "But it's easy to avoid."

Alright! My kind of people. Nothing against Starbucks, but if there's Starbucks and choice, and I'll go for choice. We started in the direction of Broadway and allowed ourselves to be distracted by the art at the Rouge and Art Placement galleries. A wander up 22nd Ave. led us to the grand entrance of the formidable Bessborough Hotel and out its back door to its sunken garden. then the South Saskatchewan River itself. From its banks we could count four of the city's seven bridges. It was a beautiful sight and Michelle and I snapped glass-river photos like a couple of tourists ~ which we were.

A stroll along Broadway made us feel right at home. We wandered into Divine clothing and I immediately glommed onto a Dickies shirt dress that had arrived merely hours earlier. "It's got three settings," said Shelbi, the manager, speaking of the waistband, "high, medium and low."

We did indeed end up at Calories and it was only after I had a full glass of Pinot Grigio in front of me that I pulled out my full-on, hard-core tourist porn. I read about how Tommy Douglas started Canada's own Medicare system in that building right over there. I read that the Mendel Gallery was showing intriguing local artists.And I read that the Meewasin Valley Trail toured Saskatoon's river, its seven bridges, and almost 50km of river bank with a perfectly smooth, paved, car-free pathway.

I folded up the brochures and maps and opened up my Calories menu."I'll have the medallions of thyme-crusted, free-range chicken," I told the waiter. I had a bike-day to fuel up for. View photos.